Beijing

Some said it was the wrong time to visit Beijing. Not the time of the year, but rather, the fact that it was one year before the Olympic games and a lot of things, even parts of the Forbidden City, would be closed for refurbishment and beautification, before China's capital opens its 'heavenly gates' for the world's atheletes and visitors. But more importantly, journalists with suspicious eyes as they inspect the details of the city to search for cracks. It would not be the full Beijing experience.

In the end, it was probably a good time to go, and pity that I had not gone earlier. One does not go to Beijing to look at the adventurous designs by Sir Norman Foster - although it is interesting to hear how superstitious locals have interpreted it as a grave for the politicians, since the reflective dome is located directly behind the rear exit of the Great Hall of the People. And while I took photos in front of the almost completed Olympic stadium that looked like a birds nest, that was not really the highlight of my tour. I wanted to see the older, Beijing, or at least what was left of it. And I wanted to see life in China, since I have barely spent time there.

There were the usual treasures in the itinerary - a short climb up the great wall up to the stone inscripted by Mao ("he who doesn't climb the wall is not a good man". Or invert the logic if you wish), the Ming Tombs, Forbidden City (which was mostly open), the summer palace, peking duck restaurant, and the ubiquitous Beijing 2008 souvenir stores. Visiting the old imperial constructions, one can't help but think that the imperials lived an unbelievably luxurious and pampered life. Yet I would not want to be in their place - they were also frightening lives - there are numerous stories of plotting, assasinations and betrayal, especially from close friends, relatives and even family. Having said that, the same goes for other cultures.

It is NOT true that the Chinese eat everything, technically speaking. Many are not as fond of Cheese as the Europeans, for example. However, the hot food and snack markets show a plethora of living organisms that can be grilled, and a whole lot of other delicacies too. Squids, insects, sea horses, you name it. Some of the labels are absolute classics - "smelly tofu - one stink will last ten thousand years" is one. For the uninitiated, smelly tofu is fermented (off?) tofu, deep fried. I did try it and was disappointed - I did not even have to hold my nose while eating it.

The last couple of days of our tour of Beijing coincided with the communist party congress, which is held once every 5 years and determines the direction of the governance. We expected total chaos, traffic closures and super tight security, but in the end it was all fine. The advantage of this was that the newspapers were rather interesting as they reviewed and analysed the country's situation.

A word of caution. When going to China and taking a guided tour, it appears that no matter how much you tell them that you do not want to go shopping, even if it is a private tour, they will squirm their way there - could be a traffic diversion, could be "Mr. Ho, your legs seem tired, would you like to go to the tea museum for a seat?", or it could be some interesting story about the history of silk, which happens to make good blankets. This correlates well with the experiences voiced by Lonely Planet, which I read during the trip. Having said that, the trip was very enjoyable and the tour guide was generally helpful and informative.

As usual there is a Flickr album. I have tried to sort the photos into themes this time, so if you can, let the slideshow run its course.

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